From Loom To Luxury
This issue, fashion historian, Scott William Schiavone, delves into the rich history of the paisley shawl and its lasting legacy
As autumn approaches, fashion becomes all about cosy layers, rich colours and versatile pieces that can transition from the mild days to the cooler evenings. The shawl is a staple piece for autumn and the most famous is the paisley shawl.
The paisley shawl, a vibrant and intricately designed textile, has a rich history that spans continents and centuries. Originating from the Kashmir region in India, these shawls were first woven in the 15th century. The most distinctive feature of these shawls is the teardrop-shaped motif known as the ‘boteh’ or ‘buta’, which symbolises life and eternity in Persian culture. This design element is central to the paisley pattern, which later became globally recognised.
The shawls were originally made from the fine wool of the Changthangi goat, indigenous to the high altitudes of the Himalayas. The weaving process was labour-intensive, often taking years to complete a single shawl. These shawls became highly prized items in Europe during the 18th and 19th centuries, brought back by European merchants and colonial officials who had encountered them in India.
The town of Paisley in Scotland, after which the pattern is named, became synonymous with these shawls during the early 19th century. The industrial revolution brought significant changes to textile production and the Scottish weavers in Paisley began to imitate the Kashmiri shawls using Jacquard looms which allowed for the mass production, making them more affordable to the general public. The town became a major centre for the production of these shawls and the name ‘Paisley’ became closely associated with the pattern.
Paisley shawls reached the height of their popularity during the Victorian era. They were considered a symbol of wealth and status. The intricate designs and the luxurious feel of the shawls made them a fashionable accessory.
The connection between paisley shawls and John Forbes Watson’s Textile Manufacturers of India books highlights the global influence and significance of Indian textiles during the 19th century. Published in the 1860s, Watson’s volumes were an extensive survey of India’s rich textile traditions. The books were distributed to all the major textile producing regions in the UK, including Preston which was a prominent cotton manufacturing hub. The Harris Museum is lucky to have a complete set in the collection. Among the many fabrics documented were the intricate shawls that had captivated European markets.
While John Forbes Watson’s books were instrumental in documenting the rich textile heritage of India, they were also problematic. Watson’s work, created during the height of British colonial rule, primarily served the interests of British manufacturers rather than those of the Indian artisans who created the textiles. By providing detailed descriptions and samples of each fabric, including shawls, Watson effectively enabled British and European manufacturers to replicate these designs on a large scale, without proper recognition or compensation to the original creators. This contributed to the decline of India’s traditional textile industries, as cheaper, machine-made and sometimes printed rather than woven versions flooded the market. Watson’s approach reflected a colonial mindset that viewed Indian craftsmanship as a resource to be exploited for the benefit of the British economy, rather than as a cultural treasure to be respected and preserved.
By the late 19th century, the vogue for paisley shawls began to wane as fashion trends changed and mass production techniques led to a decline in the quality of the shawls. As paisley shawls fell out of fashion, many of these exquisite textiles were repurposed into other garments such as coats, jackets, women’s and even children’s dresses, giving them a new lease of life. The Harris Museum has in its collections a beautiful child’s dress, dating from 1902, which is repurposed from a printed paisley shawl. In the design you can see how the tailor skilfully cut and stitched the intricate patterns into new forms, preserving the beauty of the paisley design while adapting it to the changing tastes of the time. The repurposed garments often became cherished heirlooms, passed down through generations, ensuring its continued relevance and presence in the fashion world.
Today, the paisley pattern remains a timeless design, frequently used in fashion and home décor. While the original handwoven Kashmiri shawls are rare and valuable, the legacy of the paisley shawl continues, representing a blend of cultural exchange, craftsmanship and industrial innovation. The enduring appeal of the ‘boteh’ or ‘buta’ motif stands as a testament to its rich history and global influence.
Scott William Schiavone is a fashion historian and Curator of Decorative Art at The Harris Museum and Art Gallery in Preston. Scott, who has worked with fashion and textile collections in museums across the UK, has his own YouTube channel, Fashion &… and is an accredited lecturer for The Arts Society.
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