To The Next Level…
Tedd Walmsley returns to the Freemasons at Wiswell to experience wonderful food and flawless service. Photography: Kirsten Platt
It has been far too long since I last enjoyed the culinary delights of the Freemasons at Wiswell. Unsurprisingly, I jumped at the chance to sample some of the dishes created by new head chef Matt Smith.
Before I wax lyrical about the food, and it really was excellent, I wanted to make the point on just how strong the front of house team is. There was a mix of familiar and some new faces since my last visit and coincidentally it was the first day for their new front of house manager, Andrew Thompson. Andrew brings his wealth of experience and charisma to the Freemasons team.
A great front of house team can really elevate the whole experience and that is very much what the Freemasons is all about – an experience. Its relaxed style and strong pub vibe shouldn’t confuse you on just how good the cooking is – and so on to our lunch.
The legendary snacks were first out and the perfect start to what turned out to be a leisurely unhurried lunch. Our conversation revolved around the evolution of the menu and the choice of new local suppliers and regional producers, as well as a debate about the well-balanced curated wine list and drinks menu which so importantly, complements the food.
The snacks can be a meal in themselves so pacing yourself is very important – a delicious new pain au canard alongside a selection of bite size morsels really got our tastebuds tingling.
My soup was divine and so tasty served with one of their classics – truffle Lancashire hot dog. Perhaps the highlight dish for me was the Fish of the Day, an absolute classic piece of fish cookery with a smoked bacon, saffron and mussel cassoulet – I really needed another piece of bread but had to make do with a spoon!
The beef main course looked stunning on the plate as did all the dishes – the attention to detail on crockery and presentation also enhance the food to a new level, so easy on the eye and with a taste to match. Intricate potato rosti with a deep rich red wine sauce and sticky beef cheek was all perfectly cooked. This is a signature dish for a reason.
Andrew had suggested we left room for a dessert, however we were beaten! But luckily our fantastic photographer Kirsten was on hand, so she took over and I’m told, dessert was a delight!
Matt Smith and his brigade are really cooking at a very high level based on today’s experience and as I studied the menu, the breadth on offer is still very much in evidence. The Celebration of Summer set menu will run through to the end of September and is served at lunchtime and early supper. The amazing à la carte and Ultimate Taste of the Freemasons menus are also available plus Tasting Tuesday, which I hadn’t actually seen before. I was also impressed with an excellent vegetarian menu which I would really like to try.
I’m told that Sunday lunch, that incredible British institution, remains incredibly popular with early bookings essential to secure your seat at the table.
A programme of events and latest news are regularly updated on the website and through social media.
Comfortable in my surroundings, I reflected on some great private dining experiences we had enjoyed over the last few years, special family events, Christmas lunch with colleagues – and as guests at ‘big’ birthdays and anniversaries – even a wedding!
The options upstairs in the main restaurant are flexible yet remain intimate and there is also the alternative to eat up-close and personal in the kitchen, on Chef’s Table, which gives an opportunity to see all the brigade in action.
The Freemasons has, of course, four fantastic bedrooms just next door and I’m told more in the pipeline. For friends and family visiting the area or a special treat, they are stunning and the renowned breakfast the following morning is just fabulous!
As I walked back to the car fully replete, I promised I wouldn’t leave it so long until my next visit .
Bon appétit!
Freemasons at Wiswell
8 Vicarage Fold, Wiswell BB7 9DF
01254 822218
freemasonsatwiswell.com
