Sustainable Fashion, Ethical Style
In this latest fashion column, fashion historian Scott William Schiavone explores the history of sustainability through a fashion lens
Sustainability has become something of a buzz word and in recent years, the fashion industry has undergone a transformative shift towards reflecting a growing awareness of environmental and social issues.
The history of sustainable fashion however, spans back hundreds of years. While the 18th and 19th centuries are not typically associated with the contemporary sustainability movement, there were aspects of resourcefulness and environmental awareness during these periods that can be viewed as early precursors to sustainable practices.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, clothing and textiles were valuable commodities and individuals would repair, alter and repurpose garments to extend their lifespan. During this time, clothing was predominantly handmade by skilled artisans and local seamstresses. Communities often had their own textile and garment industries, fostering a more sustainable, self-sufficient approach.
In the collection at the Harris, we have an amazing 18th century gown made from the finest Spitalfields silk. The fabric of the dress is brocaded silk and woven with sprigs of tulips, narcissi, gilly flowers and cornflowers. The cloth dates to the 1740s but the style and cut of the dress is typical of the 1760s. Because of the expensive nature of cloth, it was very common for dresses to be unpicked and re-sewn into new styles as fashions changed.
Until the 20th century, fabrics were primarily sourced from natural fibres like cotton, wool and linen. The use of natural fibres aligned with sustainability principles, as these materials were biodegradable and had a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic alternatives that became widely used during the 20th century.
While the terminology and explicit focus on sustainability were not prevalent during these historical periods, there were elements of conscientious living and resourcefulness that share common ground with contemporary sustainable practices.
The early 20th century witnessed a variety of sustainable practices driven by necessity, particularly during times of war and economic hardship. The two World Wars had a profound impact on fashion and consumption as rationing systems that restricted the use of certain materials, including silk and wool, were implemented. As a response, individuals became adept at making do with what they had. One notable example of resourcefulness during this time was the repurposing of parachute silk for wedding dresses. The UK Government also promoted a ‘Make Do and Mend’ campaign which encouraged people to repair and repurpose clothing rather than discarding and buying new.
This resourcefulness laid a foundation for later sustainability movements by demonstrating the importance of conscious consumption and waste reduction. The 21st century brought significant advancements in technology, providing the fashion industry with innovative solutions to minimise its environmental footprint. Sustainable materials gained popularity offering designers more choices to create environmentally responsible collections.
As we move forward, sustainable fashion continues to evolve. Circular fashion, second-hand markets and clothing upcycling contribute to a more circular economy, minimising the environmental impact of fast fashion.
From its early roots in environmental consciousness to the contemporary focus on ethical practices and circular economy, the fashion industry has come a long way. As consumers increasingly prioritise sustainability, the future holds the promise of a fashion industry that values both style and ethical responsibility, reflecting a positive and necessary evolution in our global approach to fashion.
Scott William Schiavone is a fashion historian and Curator of Decorative Art at The Harris Museum and Art Gallery in Preston. Scott has worked with fashion and textile collections in museums across the UK. Scott has his own YouTube channel, Fashion &… and is an accredited lecturer for The Arts Society.
