SUCCESS IN THE CITY
Gail Bailey catches up with ex Clitheroe Grammar pupil Stephen Gamst Tozer about his latest Covent Garden restaurant Maison Bab
Stephen Gamst Tozer has had a food fascination for as far back as he can remember and his enthusiasm for everything culinary is plain to see: “Since being very young, a toddler even, my parents were amazing and encouraged me to play and experiment in the kitchen. They completely nurtured my interest in food, and not being chefs themselves, they really did show an unusual level of tolerance!” explained Stephen.
Maison Bab in London’s Covent Garden, is Stephen’s second restaurant – Stephen and his business partner Ed Brunet’s original restaurant, Le Bab, in the Soho district of London was the first stage of their journey to reverse the reputation of the humble kebab: “Kebab was almost a dirty word and we wanted to change this. There are some amazing authentic kebab houses in London, but we wanted to take the original concept and create our own modern European version,” explained Stephen.
Visiting Turkey and Lebanon, initially on holiday and then latterly as a point of research, Stephen experienced the phenomenal kebabs that these countries offered, and this is where the business idea came from: “What was compelling about the kebab was that no-one had ever really done anything different with it in the UK. This became one of the key motives of inspiration for us and it became a gastronomical project.”
Originally from the small village of Inglewhite near Goosnargh Stephen’s journey itself is inspirational. On leaving Clitheroe Royal Grammar he went to Oxford University and after studying philosophy, politics and economics followed an academic route along with most of his peers, initially working in finance.
He always maintained an interest in politics, for which he credits his politics teachers Mr Watson and Mr Draper at CRGS, but whilst working in London he saw the ‘crazy’ restaurant scene emerge and wanted to be a part of it.
The chefs overseeing the dishes in both his restaurants are very much experts in their craft, all having come from Michelin starred Le Gavroche, and all great friends of Stephen, who is largely self-taught: “We saw an opportunity to celebrate what the kebab had to offer and showcase it’s diversity. What we are doing is introducing something unique to the London restaurant scene.”
A key important fact about both Maison Bab and Le Bab is that all produce used is local and sustainable, something that Stephen is clearly focused on and incredibly passionate about. “We never use intensely reared produce. I am appalled at the current way we are factory farming to supply supermarkets and restaurants. We use ethical food and, in most cases, organic.”
Stephen went on to explain that this can at times see some of their menus look both weird and interesting: “We seem to have lost our sense of seasonality in the UK so you will see us using parsnips in our kebabs this time of year rather than flying a lettuce in from Spain. Aside from the environmental impact food tastes better when it’s in season!”
The only ingredients the company imports from warmer climates tends to be the spices, the rest are painstakingly seasonally sourced, mostly organic and free-range.
Stephen’s role in the restaurant at times covers almost every aspect and when needed he’ll be polishing cutlery and making bread. But his key role is managing the front of house and ensuring that every day and every aspect of the business runs smoothly and works together: “I have to see gaps in the market and opportunities and keep my eye on everything. It isn’t always easy, but I’m fuelled by a big, big passion for what we do,” says Stephen.
It isn’t just the food that Stephen and his team are responsible for. They maintain a social awareness and are keen to give ex-offenders job roles and the opportunity to be rehabilitated where they can. They want to break down the barriers faced by those trying to re-enter mainstream work and life. This is truly an ethical company.
The Ribble Valley is still very much home to Stephen despite the success and the excitement of London life. As we approach the festive season, which can be exhausting in the restaurant trade, he says he never, ever misses coming back to Lancashire.
As we say goodbye – and I’m feeling truly inspired by Stephen’s commitment and passion – he says: “The difference in the pace of life between north and south is so noticeable and I am absolutely always at home in the Ribble Valley on Christmas Day with my family. It would have to be something so big to stop me coming back up north for Christmas – and I really can’t imagine what that could ever be!”
020 7240 9781
www.maisonbab.com
